Cheese to Please
Local Selections & Holiday Highlights
Perhaps Avery Aames, author of the Cheese Shop Mystery seriessaid it best, “Life is great. Cheese makes it better.”
Aames’ pronouncement seems to be the guiding principle for much of Sonoma County’s cheese community, including Keith Adams’ Brit-inspired venture, Wm Cofield Cheesemakers, located in The Barlow marketplace in Sebastopol. Visitors and locals alike flock to Wm Cofield for its unique offerings.
“We are all connected, especially as locals,” Adams muses when discussing the relationship between his cheesemaking philosophy and the community. “And the bounty of Sonoma is so amazing, you hardly need look elsewhere.” His pride in Sonoma County’s agricultural landscape is evident, and he takes full advantage of the area’s abundance to create cheeses that reflect the local terroir.
One of the standout offerings at Wm Cofield is their Bodega Blue, a true Stilton-style cheese. Adams shares that it has become a holiday favorite, particularly for those looking to bring a bit of English tradition to their festive gatherings. “In England, most holiday tables have Stilton and Port,” Adams explains. “We sell almost a third of our cheese between Thanksgiving and the New Year. People and families are gathering and sourcing the best.”
And at Wm Cofield, the best comes in the form of slow-crafted cheeses made with meticulous attention to detail and an artisanal approach that embraces tradition. “Slow, traditional methods of cheesemaking can’t be reproduced in a factory setting. It requires hands-on attention and care,” Adams says. “Sonoma County embraces this like few others—it’s in our roots.”
This commitment to traditional methods in an era of mass production sets Wm Cofield apart from larger, industrialized producers. Adams is part of a growing movement of artisan cheesemakers who are returning to these time-honored techniques.
Gifting Cheese
Cheese expert, author, and speaker Laura Werlin, who has authored six books on cheese (one of which won her a prestigious James Beard Award), shares this passion for artisanal cheesemaking. Werlin, who gives cheese and wine seminars to public and private clients alike, is an advocate for gifting cheese during the holidays, emphasizing that, with proper care, cheese is one of the most delightful and versatile gifts you can give.
“Cheese is absolutely giftable!” Werlin exclaims. “All cheeses can be transported, but, needless to say, the softer ones require a little more care than the firmer ones. I always pack a soft cheese in a hard-sided airtight container so that it’s protected. If there’s any space between the cheese and the inside walls of the container, I fill those with paper so that the cheese can’t move around in transport. I’ve transported cheese from Europe that way, and it works like a charm.”
Werlin explains that firmer cheeses are easier to transport, often requiring little more than being wrapped in cheese paper and some bubble wrap for extra protection. Whether gifting a soft or hard cheese, Werlin advises including a gel ice pack for cheeses that will be away from refrigeration for a longer period of time. Her expert advice ensures that any cheese lover can confidently share their favorite selections with friends and family, even across long distances.
When it comes to local Sonoma County cheese, Werlin has her own go-to recommendations for holiday gifts. “For Sonoma County cheeses specifically, my gift cheeses would include Laura Chenel’s Cranberry Goat Log (perfect for the season!), Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery’s Estero Gold Reserve, and Bohemian Creamery’s gorgeous saffron- and black pepper-flecked sheep’s milk cheese called Discreet Charms,” she says. Each of these cheeses offers something distinct—whether it’s the rich, creamy texture of the Cranberry Goat Log or the bold and savory notes in Estero Gold Reserve, they are sure to elevate any festive gathering.
Looking toward the future of local cheesemaking, Werlin is enthusiastic about the potential of some of Sonoma’s smallest producers. “I’m particularly excited about Mt. Eitan Cheese,” she says. “They are a tiny producer, where the cheeses are as artisan as they get—handmade, and I daresay, labor-intensive. The end results are goat and cow’s milk cheeses that are flavorful, complex, delicate, and beautiful.”
Werlin emphasizes that because Mt. Eitan is still so new and operates on such a small scale, their cheeses may not be easy to find. “All I can say is be on the lookout for them and do what you can to get your hands on their cheeses. It’s worth the search!”
One-Stop Cheese Shop
According to Lorraine Barber, proprietor of Petaluma Cheese Shop, another cheese worthy of tracking down is “anything from Andante Dairy.”
Andante Dairy is an artisan cheese producer in Petaluma helmed by Soyoung Scanlan, a dairy scientist, former biochemist, and music lover who gives all her creations music-themed names. Among them is the Duet, an herb-infused goat’s milk cheese, one of Barber’s favorites.
“We’re just really lucky that she’s local too, and she’s one of the best cheese makers in the world,” Barber says of Scanlon, whose cheeses are represented on the cheese course at the famous French Laundry. “All of her cheeses are fantastic,” says Barber, who also recommends the Ballad, a hard, mixed-milk (goat and Jersey cow) cheese, the rind of which is finished with pomegranate concentrate from a tree at Scanlon’s dairy.
Another holiday-ready cheese is Valley Ford Cheese & Creamery’s Estero Gold (not to be confused with the aforementioned 18-month aged reserve), which “checks a lot of boxes for a lot of people and is very approachable,” says Barber of the handmade cheese, which is made in the style of an Asiago but also reminiscent of a Montasio, and a good hard-cheese choice for charcuterie.
Speaking of which, Petaluma Cheese Shop creates to-go charcuterie boards and fondue that can be ordered online—or, to scratch another item off your holiday entertaining list, order your charcuterie board ahead via PetalumaFoodTaxi.com and have it delivered 24 hours later.
With such a bevy of local cheese selections, the only mystery is which (and how many) you’ll enjoy this holiday season.
Wm Cofield Cheesemakers can be found online at wmcofieldcheese.com
Instagram @wmcofieldcheese
You can follow Laura Werlin at laurawerlin.com
Instagram @cheezelady
Petaluma Cheese Shop is at petalumacheeseshop.com