Jess Brown’s Keepsake Clothes, Quilts and Dolls
Inspired by beautiful textiles, Jess Brown began making handmade rag dolls in 1998 from cashmere sweaters and antique remnants. Her signature dolls, crafted to order in her Northern California studio, blend simplicity with sophistication. In 2012, she launched Jess Brown Pieces, an iconic clothing collection inspired by vintage flea market finds, using carefully selected natural fiber fabrics. Each piece is redesigned with a modern aesthetic while honoring its original integrity.
Kary Hess: Your work has such a classic, universal quality. What influences your designs?
Jess Brown: Thank you so much! I think my biggest influences lie somewhere between beauty, texture, and utilitarianism. I’m inspired by the traditions of combining beautiful textiles with garments or products that can actually be lived in and with; things made with a great deal of intention and the hope for longevity.
KH: Can you walk us through your design process, from idea to finished piece?
JB: Nearly all my work comes from antique finds. I’m a huge treasure hunter—especially for textiles. I love fabrics and garments from the early 1800s through the 1920s—more often than not, my patterns come from a piece I’ve collected. I start there, then launch into a modern version, and the finished product becomes something that has a timeless sensibility to it.
KH: How does living in Sonoma County shape your creative process and aesthetic?
JB: My husband and I moved to Petaluma 25 years ago. The vibe in this town and around the county of art, music, and invention blended with the tradition of generational small farming was very exciting. I instantly felt there was a comfortable landscape I could fold my creative visions into. Petaluma lends itself towards artful risk-taking. There’s a current and constant pull towards the arts in general.
KH: What role does storytelling play in your work?
JB: It’s interesting to learn the history of where something started from, how it evolved, and what the intention is for its next moment. If I explain that this shirt I’ve been making for 15 years originally came from my father’s closet, and that I took and cut it up as a teenager, reworked and wore it threadbare, that brings some relevance, original intention, and a quality which goes with my motto: buy good things, keep them a long time.
KH: Do you see your dolls and clothing as part of a larger narrative?
JB: I do. I didn’t know how deeply my work resonated for people when I began. When I began the rag doll collection— and even when I began the clothing line—I wanted to create things that would survive both trend and use. I wanted to create a rag doll for a child that one day they would pass on to their child—that is actually happening now as some of those kids are now parents!
KH: Sustainability and handcrafting seem central to your designs. How do you choose your materials?
JB: Really great materials and fabrics are intrinsic to my work. I always work with very high-quality linen, Liberty of London florals, and antique pieces. I love blending all of these materials to create something utilitarian that will last. By saving all of the scraps left after cutting my women’s collection, I’m able to have what I need for dolls and quilts.
KH: What have been some of the most rewarding or surprising moments in your career?
JB: What resonates the most are the incredible stories people share with me about how my work, or now my shop, has touched them. When I began receiving thank-you letters from children with photos of their rag dolls, I was absolutely floored. I understood I had created something truly important.
KH: Your work has reached an international audience—how does that feel?
JB: Surreal, still. That happened early with the rag dolls. I began that collection over 20 years ago, and very
quickly it grew to be popular around Europe and Japan. I have stayed consistent with my work, and that can be appealing in many cultures.
KH: What advice would you give to artists and designers looking to build a meaningful, sustainable brand?
JB: Trust yourself.
KH: What keeps you inspired and excited about designing?
JB: I’m inspired most when I allow myself to evolve. My point-of-view doesn’t change much, but the way I present it is in motion. If I’m excited about an idea, I just do it. I try a lot of things. I can’t help myself!
Jess Brown’s rag dolls, women’s fashion, and home collections are available online and in select shops worldwide, or visit her Petaluma shop.
Jess Brown Design
jessbrowndesign.com
144 Petaluma Blvd N, Petaluma
(707) 782-3290
Tuesday–Sunday, 11am-5pm